Thirsty Farmer is a fun, friendly and out of the way

• By Phantom Diner

For those for whom coronavirus means cancelled vacation, less overall travel, little dining out or just too much closed-in living, your Phantom took a road trip.

In search of a meal far from the madding crowds of Harrisburg, or anyplace with anything resembling any kind of crowd, I drove southwest to Adams County’s farm and fruit land.

Down Route 15, then Route 234, through Biglerville, then Arendtsville towards Orttanna, to a place on Cashtown Road called the Thirsty Farmer.

It took close to an hour, but most of the trip on 234 was open fields and little traffic and, all-in-all, refreshingly bucolic. It felt freeing just to be out and about for more than local errands.

The Farmer is a modest-looking roadside brewery serving craft beer and brew pub fare of sandwiches and small plates.

It’s comfy, if rustic, featuring wooden chairs and tables, both indoors and on a large, attached porch. A lawn area facing fields can host bring-your-chair and/or blanket events. There’s what looks like about an acre of hops growing next to the place. And a large above-ground pool is used for diving-dog competitions.

There’s bar-seating inside, but, as of this writing, not for use.

My country junket included a meet-up with local friends. It came shortly after new restrictions hit restaurants and bars in mid-July requiring indoor dining be only 25 percent of a venue’s capacity, and permitting sale and consumption of alcohol only with a meal.

Staff at the Farmer were welcoming, masked and properly distanced and explained to us upon our arrival the details of these restrictions, and how their ordering and serving works, which, as it turned out, is very efficiently.

A blackboard lists nine beers on tap. You order on the spot, then carry your glass to your table, in our case a four-top out on the porch.

The selection ranged over beer-lovers’ favorites: a medium-bodied amber Vienna Lager, a crisp German-style wheat Hefeweisen, an American Pale Ale, a Chocolate Porter made with organic cacao, a beer/cider hybrid called Apple Graff, and more.

You then pick up a one-sheet, two-sided paper menu to fill out your food order. You get pre-wrapped plastic utensils at the bar, napkins from a dispenser, and your food is called out or delivered when ready.

I should note while all this seems simple and modest, the Thirsty Farmer is part of a big-deal operation, owned and run by the Knouse Family, which also owns the large farm market and events site, the 1914 Historic Round Barn, right across the road.

And the family, which includes generations of farmers, smokes and pulls the pork, beef, ham and chicken served at the Farmer, grows veggies and fruit (they also own a bunch of orchards throughout the region) and, of course, brews the beer and cider, including crowlers and growlers to go.

In other words, this is better than farm-to-table. This is farm-to-Farmer.

The place was a hit at our table. Everything I tasted was fresh and delicious.

The menu has specials such as a cheese steak wrap or fish `n chips. But the fun is its build-your-own sandwich section, which allows for some creative eating, and for less than $10.

Start by choosing, let’s call it your vehicle: a quesadilla, panini, flatbread, brioche or wrap. You can add a topping such as apple butter, apple honey BBQ, raspberry chipotle BBQ or jalapeno mustard.

Next, pick a meat or mushroom: pulled beef, pulled pork, pulled chicken, pulled ham, a “jumbo” hotdog or portobella mushroom. Then, if you like, a cheese: pepperjack, American, cheddar, nacho, shredded cheddar or shredded provolone and mozzarella.

Choose up to three toppings: lettuce, mayo, tomato, onion, bread & butter pickles or grilled onions. Or, if you’re feeling adventurous, a specialty topping, at a little extra cost, such as grilled apple slices, applewood bacon, jalapeno slices or onion rings.

There are small plates and sides such as loaded chips and salsa, loaded fries, jalapeno poppers, mozzarella sticks, beer-battered onion rings and corn fritters.

There’s even a “Little Farmer’s Menu” with hot dogs, grilled cheese, mac `n cheese and chicken fingers. And dessert offerings include pie and warm apple cider donuts with cinnamon sugar.

This is a fun, friendly place, with very reasonably priced grub and good craft beer in a peaceful setting that for many, especially these days, is something a little bit different. If you’ve got time and could use a day out, give it a try.

 

THIRSTY FARMER BREW WORKS

290 Cashtown Rd., Biglerville (though it’s well past Biglerville)

thirstyfarmer.com; 717-334-3325

Open Thursday, 4 to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Sunday noon to 7 p.m.

On-site parking; takes cards.